Plantains prove that they are more like potatoes than bananas, which they resemble, in recipes such as chicken and plantain moqueca.

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Plantains prove that they are more like potatoes than bananas, which they resemble, in recipes such as chicken and plantain moqueca.

Plantains’ roots run to potatoes

By J.M. Hirsch

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They’re sold alongside the bananas, but they probably belong closer to the potatoes.

Though plantains may resemble bananas, they taste and cook more like a tuber. In much of the world, that’s how this starchy fruit – sometimes called a “cooking banana” – is used. In Africa and India, plantains often are used as the base of stews and curries, much as potatoes would be.

In this one-pot dinner from Brazil (inspired by a similar recipe in Leticia Moreinos Schwartz’ “The Brazilian Kitchen”), simmered plantains make a delicious base to a chicken curry. They also provide a natural starch that thickens the sauce.

When shopping for plantains, look for large, firm fruit. The thick skin can vary from green to yellow to black. Green is unripe, while yellow to black colors indicate the plantains are ready. But be warned: Even ripe plantains are not pleasant eating when raw.

J.M. Hirsch is author of “High Flavor, Low Labor: Reinventing Weeknight Cooking.”

Main Dish

Chicken And Plantain Moqueca

2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken breasts, cut into chunks

Salt and ground black pepper

3 tablespoons olive oil, divided

1 large yellow onion, diced

2 green bell peppers, cored and cut into chunks

4 cloves garlic, minced

1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger

1 tablespoon minced jarred jalapeno slices

2 cups chicken broth

15-ounce can coconut milk

1/4 cup tomato paste

2 bay leaves

3 ripe (skins should be yellow and black) plantains, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks

2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

Place the chicken in a 5- to 6-quart Dutch oven. Sprinkle it with salt, pepper and 2 tablespoons of the oil. Stir to coat, then cover and set aside for 10 minutes.

Set the Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Saute the chicken until lightly browned, about six to eight minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the chicken to a bowl. Cover and set aside.

Return the Dutch oven to the heat and add the onion and bell peppers. Saute until softened, about four minutes. Add the garlic, ginger and jalapenos, then saute for another minute. Return the chicken to the pot, then add the broth, coconut milk, tomato paste and bay leaves.

Bring the mixture to a boil and cook, uncovered, for five minutes. Add the plantains and cook, uncovered, for another 15 minutes or until the plantains are soft but not mushy.

To serve, remove and discard the bay leaves, season with salt and pepper, then sprinkle with cilantro.

Yields four servings.

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