Tarboro native trades in world view for hometown

Inez Ribustello is in her element.

Moving lithely between tables, booths and counter, she glances around On the Square restaurant. Shortly after the weekday lunch rush, Ribustello chats animatedly with customers, greets a business associate and tosses a smile over her shoulder at staff members.

In a way, Ribustello, who owns On the Square with her husband, Stephen, is a symbol of the spirit of Tarboro. She is an example of the simple sophistication born of small-town charm.

She is the daughter who sought a bigger world, where she rose to fame in her field. She is a woman who returned to Eastern North Carolina – to her roots – to nurture herself, her family and her community.

Ribustello is home.

Passion in Practice

It has been seven years since Ribustello moved back to Tarboro from the New York City area, but each day brings new joy.

When the Ribustellos opened On the Square, it was the result of a blend of unique skills. Inez Ribustello brought her expertise in wine, and Stephen brought his culinary skills. Together, those qualities turned into a popular business. On the Square has been eagerly embraced by Tarboro, Rocky Mount and Greenville residents and by visitors to the area.

“The community is almost the entire reason we’ve been so fortunate,” Inez Ribustello says. “It’s what we’re about.”

In New York, where Ribustello moved after earning a degree in journalism and mass communication from the University of North Carolina-Chapel Hill, she thrived. One job led to another, and soon, she was the beverage director of Windows on the World, the restaurant inside the World Trade Center.

In that position, she was the wine buyer for what was then the largest-grossing restaurant in North America. Stephen was sommelier for the restaurant at the same time.

On the Square became a dream come true for the two, and the result is a quaint-but-classy, intimate gathering spot for couples, groups of friends and family and organizations.

Cheerful, light yellow walls hold blown-up, black and white framed photos of people and scenes from Tarboro in years gone by. Bursts of bright flowers sit atop the tables, and a sleek bar welcomes customers. A separate alcove houses an extensive wine cellar.

Music – pleasantly loud but not enough to muffle conversation – floats through the establishment, where big-city expertise mingles with local flair. The Ribustellos enjoy using produce from local farmers, and patrons even offer the fruits of their labor, like mint from their gardens, to On the Square’s fare.

The venture has expanded to Greenville, where the couple opened 4th Street Wine Shop & Bar.

“Eastern North Carolina is very worldly,” Ribustello says. “People love to travel, and they love to hear about and try different things, whether it’s food or wine. They’re adventurous.”

After growing up in Tarboro, Ribustello pursued her interests in food and wine, eventually landing the position at Windows on the World.

She made a name for herself as an expert, earning numerous awards and finishing high in the competition ranks of nationally known wine experts. Wine Spectator awarded On the Square a two-glass rating for its wine list, one of only 13 restaurants in North Carolina and one of only two east of Raleigh to earn the distinction. In addition, the couple routinely travels backto New York and brings back ideas and new trends in food and wine service. Even with her reputation as a top expert, Ribustello maintains her small-town attitude, which radiates throughout her businesses.

“We want to make customers feel comfortable,” she says, “and we try to be hospitable and generous, which are the same things we were taught when we worked up north.”

On the Square’s menu and wine selection have grown over the years. So has its staff.

“The people who work here are really what makes the restaurant go,” Ribustello says. “All of them play a huge part in why so many people enjoy this place.”

One staff member stands out. Frances Liverman formerly owned On the Square, and she serves as its manager for the Ribustellos. For her, working with Inez Ribustello has been a joy.