Recipes help relish the radish
A pair of ways to celebrate the humble root vegetable
By ELIZABETH KARMEL
Wednesday, June 13, 2018
I don’t remember when I had radishes with unsalted butter and coarse salt for the first time, but I know that it was in France.
And it was the oblong red-to-fushia, white-tipped French breakfast radish that I fell in love with. This often photographed radish is what I think of when I think of French open-air markets. I myself have taken more photos of the radishes in the market than I can count. So I am thrilled that you can now find them in the United States. If you have a home garden, you can also grow them.
I don’t have a vegetable garden, but I belong to a CSA (community supported agriculture) which essentially means that I get a weekly share of the local farm’s vegetables. So imagine my delight when my first box contained baby French breakfast radishes. Last summer, they did not have these radishes, so I was doubly excited. I was so thrilled to see the radishes that I ignored everything else in my CSA box and promptly made a “tartine.” A tartine is not a complicated dish. It is simply the French name for open-faced sandwich. Mine was composed solely of the radishes, unsalted butter and my favorite naturally coarse French salt, fleur de sel (flower of salt).
The first time that I experienced the luscious combination of butter, radish and salt was on a slice of the famous brown sourdough bread from Poilane. The toothsome and rustic bread with a sour tang and chewy crust was the perfect canvas for the toppings. The crunchy, slightly hot and spicy radishes tamed by the sweet butter and rounded out by the crystals of pure salt from the fleur de sel was one of the great food moments of my life and left a lasting impression. It is one of those classic food pairings where the whole is much greater than the sum of the parts.
You can make a tartine with the more easily available globe radishes or the gorgeous watermelon radish, or a combination of your favorite radishes. You can also serve the radishes with the same garnishes, but without the bread as a nibble with drinks. Truth be told, I do this much more frequently because the tartine also relies on a really nice rustic loaf of bread and I don’t always have that on hand. But I always have good quality unsalted butter and fleur de sel, so this is a pretty, tasty, easy and relatively healthy pre-dinner snack.
To serve, I place room temperature butter in a pretty crock, a tablespoon of fleur de sel in a small salt cellar or small bowl and serve the radishes ice cold in a third bowl. If using breakfast radishes, clean and trim them, leaving a bit of the green tops on to act like a handle. Soak in ice water to crisp up before serving. To eat them, dip the radishes in the soft butter and fleur de sel just before consuming and watch the bowl of radishes disappear! If you haven’t had this remarkable simple treat before, prepare to become addicted.
If using globe radishes, in addition to trimming the tops as you did for the breakfast radishes, cut a slit into the four sides of the radish with a paring knife. Soak them in ice water for about 30 minutes to crisp up and bloom a bit before serving. You can also simply cut an “X’’ in the bottom of the radish to hold the butter and salt. Smear with butter first and then dip into the salt. Pop into your mouth and enjoy!
Elizabeth Karmel is a barbecue and Southern foods expert. She is the chef and pit master at online retailer CarolinaCueToGo.com and the author of three books, including “Taming the Flame.”
Stir-Fry Radish With Crab
1 bunch red or French breakfast radishes, with greens attached
2 teaspoons canola oil
2 tablespoons cold water
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar or Chinese black vinegar (Chinese black vinegar gives a smoky sweetness to the radishes and is available at Asian markets. It is somewhat less sweet than balsamic vinegar.)
Pinch sugar, preferably superfine
7 ounces jumbo-lump crabmeat, picked over to remove any cartilage
1 tablespoon black sesame seeds (Black sesame seeds are in the Asian section in supermarkets.)
Juice of ½ lime
Pinch crushed red pepper flakes, for garnish (optional)
Trim the leaves, with an inch or 2 of stems, from the radishes and rinse well to remove any grit. Shake dry. Trim the radishes, then cut them into quarters or bite-size chunks.
Heat a wok or saute pan over high heat until it is almost smoking, then swirl in the oil. Add the radish greens and radishes; stir-fry for 10 to 15 seconds, then drizzle in the water around the edge of the pan (to create some steam for softening the radishes). Season right away with the vinegar and sugar, stirring just long enough for the sugar to dissolve, then remove from the heat. Add the crab, breaking it up gently with your fingers as it falls into the pan. Toss gently to combine. Sprinkle with the sesame seeds.
Divide between individual plates. Squeeze the juice of the lime half over each portion, then sprinkle with the crushed red pepper flakes, if using. Serve warm.